This is a Summer Climbing Meet based in the Pala di San Martino region of the Dolomites in northwest Italy.
The Pala di San Martino is dolomite limestone, renowned for its steep faces. The rock is generally very solid, littered with holds, and numerous threads which gives excellent climbing routes with good protection. There numerous highly sought after and beautiful classic climbs in the valley at very accessible grades- up to V+ (British VS-low HVS)
The climbing meet will be based at the Castelpietra Campsite in the idyllic valley of Cant del Gal, a very famous climbing location with direct access to the Refuges Treviso and Pradidali from the valley floor.
Tania Noakes will take the lead in coordinating the meet from the Campsite in Cant del Gal.
To join this meet you need to be a WAAC BMC Club member. If you are not already one you can join for this meet.
Registration is now closed and we are collecting deposits from those who registered.
The routes often demand a degree of familiarity with somewhat lose and complicated mountaineering terrain. Descents can be long and committing at times, requiring a combination of exposed walking, downclimbing and short abseils. Route finding is also a challenge at times and for those new to the dolomites and unfamiliar with the terrain it is worth taking a day with a guide to help support your climbing progression safely.
For these reasons it is not an ideal location for those who are very new to climbing. A certain minimum level of experience is required, both in climbing outdoors and in hillwalking. It is however, an excellent area to deepen and broaden the confidence and capability of an already experienced climber- or someone who prefers to second long routes with the support and guidance of an experienced lead or Mountain Guide.
There are lots of beautiful mountain walks and Via Ferratas in the area too for meet members who want to join in but are not climbers.
For the rock climbers amongst you we have tried to put together an inspiring and supportive meet.
One that gives opportunities to experienced UK trad climbers to have a safe, successful and productive first trip to this iconic mountain range.
For more experienced climbers we hope to offer the opportunity to tackle bigger routes in climbing partnership with a Mountain Guide, should they choose, where there will be the possibility of sharing some of the leading in this incredible but challenging environment.
There will also be the opportunity for WAAC members who are solid climbers as a second (not leading) and who would prefer to have a fully Guided rock-climbing experience and just cover as many pitches of classic rock as possible during the week.
The rock climbing meet will be structured as
1 Day Skills Check for independent climbers (Sunday)
2 Day Initial Package for those wanting some Guided input to start off the week (Monday and Tuesday)
Rest of the week options (Tuesday - Friday) - climb independently/guided mentoring for lead climbers/guided climbing for experienced seconds. You can choose to take some days for non climbing activities such as via ferrata and hiking.
Please read below for details.
All participants must either do the Sunday skills check or the Monday/Tuesday initial package.
1 DAY SKILLS CHECK FOR INDEPENDENT CLIMBERS
In small groups on the Pala di San Martino Peak normal route. A mountaineering journey with skills development and checking along the way with a Guide.
We will use the big lift from the valley to do this in a day, no hut stay required.
This will cost €100 each and you will need to buy a lift ticket (€33.5 return, €28 single)
2-DAY INITAL PACKAGE
To give everyone a clear appreciation of the area specific challenges and hazards. To become aware of guidebook times for approaches and descents, and refresh the skills that are most likely to be required. Classic dolomite descents require a combination of exposed walking in lose terrain (where the consequences of a fall are serious but probability relatively low), downclimbing (where great skill and judgement is required to safely manage these sections efficiently) and short abseils.
The first day will be run in small groups and involve a walk in to a local mountain refuge (Refuge del Velo) and the mountain and crag skills close to the mountain hut. You will then stay at the hut overnight.
The second day we plan to ascend the normal route on Sass Maor, which is a big mountaineering route involving climbing up to UIAA 3-4. There may also be opportunity to complete multi pitch climbing with a refresh of rappelling.
You will then descend back to the valley campsite.
This will cost €350 for the two days and you will need to pay for your hut space on monday night.
During the latter part of the meet there are two available guided options:
1: Guided at 1:2 €300pppd EXPERIENCED LEAD CLIMBER MENTORING TO LONGER ROUTES
1 day shared with a Guide with the aim of stepping up to a longer and more committing route and coaching to full independence.
You should be an experienced lead climber of UK Trad with a lead climbing level confidently at VS 4c. You should have a good mountaineering background and have efficient ropework skills.
This can also be at 1:1 for €550pppd
2.Guided at 1:2 €250pppd EXPERIENCED SECOND CLIMBER FOR AS MUCH CLIMBING AS POSSIBLE
Single to multiple days of guided rock climbing. We would endeavour to partner climbers of a similar grade but in my experience on long routes in this area the maximum we are likely to climb is UIAA grade VI, and mostly likely maximum UIAA grade V. (UK Trad VS to low HVS)
It would be best to consider minimum 2 days to allow one overnight at a mountain refuge which widens the number of potential routes and significantly shortens the approach or descent at the end of the days climbing.
You should be able to second routes up to VS 4c reasonably efficiently and without undue hesitation. You should be keen to improve your ropework skills and general mountaineering knowledge and awareness. You should be able to negotiate scree and lose rock whilst staying reasonably calm.