Wild Mountain Trad Climbing in the Pale San Martino Dolomites
WAAC Dolomites Trip 2026 by Gina
Since I first visited the Dolomites I’d dreamed of climbing those limestone giants, but it felt like too big a leap from the UK trad crags that I was familiar with.
Enter the WAAC Summer 2026 Meet
The trip looked like the perfect opportunity to go and explore the Pale di San Martino area with the support of amazing guides & women who also believe that trad is rad.
Before arriving in the Dolomites I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a bit nervous - I’d never joined a WAAC summer meet before and didn’t know anyone else going. Little did I realise I was about to have the best week with women I’d come to call friends in just a few days.
Our base for the week was the charming Camping Castelpietra in the stunning Val Canali. The first couple of days consisted of a guided introduction to the area. This included getting to grips with “Via Normale” routes which often served as both an ascent and descent and learning the importance of budgeting enough time to make the last lift (or get better at running uphill to make the last lift 😅).
The rest of the week was a mix of independent days where we were free to make our own plans or do guided days where independent climbers had the opportunity to lead with a guide if they wanted. This gave me the confidence to tackle bigger multi pitch days with involved approaches and descents with the benefit of having a guide to help navigate the risks of new terrain safely.
Independent days were spent either hiking to rifugios, doing a via ferrata, relaxing at the beautiful lake nearby or feasting on local dumplings in Fiera di Primero, the quaint town nearby.
I loved that the meet had such a diverse mix of ages, from early 20s to 70, and almost every decade in between. There’s something unique about tying into a rope with someone and setting off on an adventure together where the course of the day isn’t predetermined. I treasure my memories of this meet and hope that it is just the first of many more weeks to come where I get to spend time in the mountains with funny, brave and brilliant women.
Last but not least, a huge thank you to Jenny Dart, without whom we would not have found each other, Tania Noakes for her invaluable local knowledge of the area and to all our guides, especially Lou, Cristina and Alex who made sure we all had an endless amount of fun.
Helpful planning info
Travel - Venice is nearest major airport. Car rental is a necessity.
Approaches - One lift serves the “altiplano” area where a lot of climbs are then within a 1 hour hike from the top lift. Otherwise get used to some quite long (by UK standards) 2-3 hour approaches from the valley with a lot of elevation gain - there’s often a refugio en route for coffee! Some routes include exposed scrambling or even a via ferrata to get to the base of the climb.
Descents - Often a walk off down loose, steep scree slopes, occasional abseils and for some peaks, the only descent was the Via Normale. Longer days can be combined with a night at a rifugio which definitely opens up more options, although early starts were generally the name of the game all week!
Rack - slings very useful for threads, a few cams, didn’t use a single nut. Some in situ gear on popular routes (pitons, old threads and some newer bolts). Belays often bolted. Half ropes helpful but not essential if choosing routes without abseils.
Guidebooks and Route Info - Outdoor active and Tabacco Map apps were useful for via ferratas and approaches. You can find info on Gulliver and Camp to Camp websites to translate into English via Google translate. We used the guidebooks from Quartogrado (can get an English version) and the area guidebook from Versante Sud.
http://www.quartogrado.com/gruppi/pale.htm
https://www.dolomitescape.com/classic-climbs-pale-group/
Route suggestions
Anticima di Roda, Via Castiglioni-Battisti
Best for: nice introduction to the area
This beautiful relatively easygoing climb can be done in half a day and benefits from being a short 30 minute (downhill!) approach from the top lift and a straightforward descent (walk off) back to the main path. Roughly equivalent to a HVD/S in UK trad grades the route provides a wonderful introduction to the style of climbing without ever getting too serious. The route has bolted belays and bolts in some of the crux chimneys, otherwise mostly threads and cams. If all goes well, you can be back at the refugio for lunch!
Sass D’Ortiga, Spigolo Weissner-Kees
Best for: a big day out with superb climbing and views
You’ll want to be well rested before embarking on this classic route. Located in the stunning Val Canali, this route offers a bit of everything. The approach is long - hike up from the valley to the rifugio, press on through the woods where you scramble up to the col, ditch your pack at the col to hydrate then gear up to traverse into a via ferrata and a short final steep hike up to the base of the climb. The views of the valley and mountains around you are outrageously beautiful and the crux pitch has in situ gear right where you want it. Most of the climbing was HVD/S with the crux being one or two powerful moves of VS. In classic Dolomites style, can be quite run out. Advise getting an early start (we left the campsite at 6am). It’s a popular route even in spite of the long approach. The descent is a steep walk off on some loose rock. Some people may consider short roping for sections. Some short abseil stations or exposed down climbing. Don’t forget to stop at the rifuguo on the way down for well deserved drinks! 10/10 would recommend to a friend.
Routes we climbed
Via Elena, La Rodetta
Via Castiglioni - Battisti, Anticima di Roda
Via Ferrata Bolver-Luigi
Via Ferrata Del Velo
Spigolo Weissner-Kees (W Ridge) Sass Di Ortiga
Spigolo Sud, Nuvolo
Via Ferrata del Porton
Via Normale, Pala di San Martino
Via Normale, Sass Maor
Via Castiglione- Detassis, Pala Del Refugio
Via Normale, Cima Lastei
Via Ferrata della Vecchia
Flower Power, Togazza
Via Crispono Loss, Rifugio del Vello Madonna
Timillero/Secco, Punta Disperazione